Materials: Choose one of the following threads in size 20:
Clark's O.N.T. Mercerized Crochet, 31 balls of Linen or Dk. Linen, or 21 balls of White or Ecru.
J. & P. Coats Mercerized Crochet, 25 balls of Linen or Dk. Linen, or 18 balls of White or Ecru.
J. & P. Coats Big Ball Best Six Cord Mercerized Crochet, 11 balls of White or Ecru.
Milward's steel crochet hook No. 10.
¼ yd. grosgrain ribbon of a contrasting color.
5 buttons to match ribbon.
Measurements: Bust—34 inches. Length from top of shoulder—19 inches. Length of sleeve, underarm seam—3¼ inches.
Gauge: 2 shells make 1 inch; 7 rows of shells make 2 inches.
Back. Starting at short side of waistband, ch 36 (to measure about 3½ inches). 1st row: S c in 2nd ch from hook, s c in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. Hereafter pick up only the back loop of each s c. 2nd row: S c in each s c across. Ch 1, turn. Repeat 2nd row until piece measures 12 inches. Do not break off, but work along long side of waistband as follows:
1st row: * Ch 1, skip 1 ridge, 7 d c in next ridge, ch 1, skip 1 ridge, s c in next ridge (a shell made). Repeat from * across, taking care to have 25 shells in the 1st row. Ch 6, turn. 2nd row: * S c in 4th d c of next shell, ch 3, d c in each of next two ch-1 sps, ch 3. Repeat from * across, ending row with s c in 4th d c of last shell, ch 3, d c in last ch-1 sp. Ch 1, turn. 3rd row: * Shell in next s c, ch 1, s c between next 2 d c, ch 1. Repeat from * across, ending row with shell in last s c, ch 1, s c in 4th st of turning ch. Ch 6, turn. The last 2 rows constitute the pattern. Repeat these 2 rows alternately, increasing ½ shell at both ends of every 3rd shell row until there are 33 shells in the row. (To increase ½ shell, on the previous loop-row end with ch-3, instead of ch-1, and d c in last ch-1 sp. Ch 3, turn, and on next row make 3 d c in d c of previous row. Continue in pattern across, making s c in turning ch, ch 1, 4 d c in same ch; ½ shell is now increased at both ends. But, on next increase row, inc. ½ shell by making a complete shell, instead of ½ shell at both ends of shell row.) Work straight until piece measures 10½ inches in all.
To Shape Armholes: Sl st across to within 1st ch-1 sp of 3rd shell (2 shells decreased), work in pattern across to within last 2 shells (2 more shells decreased). Hereafter dec. 1 shell at both ends of each shell row until 25 shells remain. Work straight until piece measures 7 inches from 1st row of armhole shaping. To shape shoulders, dec. 1 shell at both ends of each shell row until 9 shells remain. Break off.
Left Front. Work waistband as for Back for 13 inches. Do not break off, but work along long side of waistband as for Back to center of band, taking care to have 15 shells across first half of band. Then work 2 shells beyond center (17 shells in all); turn. Hereafter work in pattern, increasing ½ shell at underarm side on every 4th shell row, keeping front edge straight, until there are 20 shells in the row. Work straight until piece measures 11½ inches in all.
To Shape Armhole: Starting at underarm edge, dec. 3 shells at beginning of next shell row and 1 shell at same edge on every shell row thereafter until 14 shells remain. Work straight until piece measures 5 inches from 1st row of armhole shaping. On next shell row, and on each shell row thereafter, dec. 2 shells at front edge (thus starting neck shaping) until 8 shells remain. Work straight until piece measures 7 inches from 1st row of armhole shaping. To shape shoulder, dec. 2 shells at armhole edge each shell row until all shells are worked off. Break off.
Right Front. Attach thread on same ridge of waistband as 4th shell from front edge was made, taking care to have Right Front lap over Left Front. Work as for Left Front, reversing shapings and making a buttonhole 1 shell in from front edge after the 1st 2½ inches (from top of waistband) and every 3 inches thereafter until 5 buttonholes in all are made (to make a buttonhole, ch 8, skip 1 shell, s c between next 2 d c, and continue in pattern across).
Sleeves. Starting at bottom, ch 170 (to measure about 11 inches). 1st row: 7 d c in 4th ch from hook, ch 1, skip 3 ch, s c in next ch, * ch 1, skip 3 ch, 7 d c in next ch, ch 1, skip 3 ch, s c in next ch. Repeat from * across (21 shells). Ch 6, turn. Hereafter work in pattern, increasing ½ shell at both ends of every other shell row until there are 27 shells in the row. Work straight until piece measures 3¾ inches. To shape top of sleeve, dec. 1 shell at both ends of each of next 3 shell rows. Then dec. ½ shell at both ends of every other shell-row until 13 shells remain. Hereafter dec. 1 shell at both ends of every other shell-row until 7 shells remain. Break off.
Cuffs. Starting at bottom, ch 160 (to measure about 10½ inches) and work in pattern as for sleeve (20 shells), increasing 4 shells at equal distances apart on every other shell-row twice (28 shells). Work straight until piece measures 2 inches. Break off.
Collar. Starting at neck edge, ch 224 and work in pattern as for sleeve until 2 shell-rows are completed. Then, on next loop-row and every other loop-row thereafter, inc. 1 ch until there are 5 ch (instead of 3 ch) between sts; at the same time, inc. 1 d c in each shell on every other shell-row until there are 11 d c in each shell. Work another row with 11 d c in each shell. Break off.
Pockets (Make 2). Starting at lower edge, ch 64 and work in pattern until 4 shell-rows are completed. Break off. Cut a piece of ribbon 3½ inches long, double it and sew ends together. Place this piece on pocket, to show ¼ inch above scalloped edge, and sew in place (see illustration).
Sew up underarm seams, easing in the extra fullness of Front 1½ inches down from armhole shaping. Sew up shoulder seams. Sew up sleeve seams and sew sleeves in, folding the extra fullness of sleeves into 4 pleats at top of sleeves. Sew cuffs to bottoms of sleeves. Sew collar to neck edge. Place pockets in position, as in illustration, and sew in place. Sew on buttons to correspond with buttonholes.
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